Breed Time Line

The first of the wolf look alike breeds known today started in 1921 by Dutch dog breeder Leendert Saarloos (1884 - 1969). His ultimate goal was to create "a new and genetically rejuvenated dog breed" by crossing a German Shepherd dog named Gerard Van Fransenum with a female European she-wolf named Fleur. ^[1]

In 1955, ing. Karel Hartl came up with the idea to combine the useful qualities of the wolf with those of the dog as a military working dog for the CSSR. The first litter from this experiment was born in 1958 from a European she-wolf named Brita and a German Shepherd named Cezar z Brezoveho hagi. ^[2]

It was after the Saarlooswolfhond and the Czechoslovakian Wolfdog were recognized by official organizations that the first wolf look-alike dog breeds (presumably without wolf content) were started.

The first began in 1987 by Edwina (Eddie) Harrison, who imported five northern-type dogs from the USA to England. Her goal was to produce wolf looking dogs that were compatible as family pets. Shortly thereafter, in 1988, the offspring were named Northern Inuit - however, an official breed club was not established until several years later. ^[3]

Meanwhile, in 1991, Ann Dresselhaus began crossbreeding several different dog breeds from many different dog types ^[4], with the intent to create a wolf looking dog breed capable of almost any kind of work.

In 1996-97, the Northern Inuit society was finally formed to keep track of the emerging breed. However, there were many different opinions from breeders in this new society, and around 1999 - 2002, a portion of the breeders took stock from the Northern Inuit society and other founder breeds to create their new dog: the Utonagan. After years of careful selective breeding, the Utonagan and Northern Inuit are now phenotypically different. ^[5]

After disputes in the Utonagan society, a third split occurred in 2005 - 2006 resulting in the formation of the Tamaskan Dog breed ^[6]. Using Utonagans, Northern Inuits, and Finnish Racing Huskies, the Tamaskan Dog breeding program has recently (2011) produced its sixth generation of registered dogs and the Tamaskan Dog Register (TDR) disputes any claim of any wolf content. ^[7]

This controversy of wolf content, plus controversy surrounding the breeding stock of the Tamaskan, the breeding practices of the TDR, and politics surrounding the breed are the primary reasons a small contingent of Tamaskan breeders broke away from the TDR and found the Aatu Tamaskan in 2009 ^[8] . Using registered Tamaskan Dogs and some new outcrosses, the Aatu Tamaskan hopes to fulfill the same goal as the original Tamaskan: to produce a healthy wolf look-alike with both working ability and family compatibility. ^[9]

One of their outcross dog breeds is the Alaskan Noble Companion Dog. The same dog breed started in 1991 by Ann Dresselhaus. The Aatu Tamaskan hopes to introduce this new foundation stock to the breed in 2011. ^[10]

• 1921 — Leendert Saarloos begins crossbreeding German Shepherd Dogs with wolves.
• 1955 — Mr. Ing. Karel Hartl begins crossbreeding German Shepherd Dogs with wolves.
• 1975 — The Dutch Kennel Club recognizes the Saarlooswolfhond as a new breed.
• 1981 — The FCI recognizes the Saarlooswolfhond as a new breed.
• 1982 — The Cynologic Organization in Czechoslovakia recognizes the Czechoslovakian Wolfdog as a new breed.
• Around 1987 — Edwina (Eddie) Harrison begins crossbreeding northern and herding breeds.
• 1991 — Ann Dresselhaus begins crossbreeding herding, northern, retriever, sheep guarding, and sighthound breeds.
• 1996-97 — The Northern Inuit emerged from Eddie's foundation dogs.
• 1999 — The FCI recognizes the Czechoslovakian Wolfdog as a new breed.
• 2002 — The Utonagan split from the Northern Inuit and today is considered by some to be a separate breed.
• 2005-06 — The Tamaskan Dog breeding program began, with foundation dogs including Utonagan/Northern Inuits, and Finish Racing Huskies.
• After 2007 — Right Puppy Kennel begins breeding the Tamaskan Wolfdog, using Tamaskan Dogs, wolf looking northern breeds, and possibly wolfdogs.
• 2009 — Breeders who resigned from the Tamaskan Dog Register begin breeding the Aatu Tamaskan.

---

1. "Saarloos Wolfdogs Basic Info". Saarloos Wolfodgs on Facebook. 7 March 2011.
2. "History". Cheope: Czechoslovakian Wolfdog. 7 March 2011.
3. "Breed History". Wild Horizons Northern Inuit Dogs. 7 March 2011.
4. "Alaskan Noble Companion Dog". Buckhorn. 7 March 2011.
5. "Utonagan History". Twatha Utonagan. 7 March 2011.
6. "The History of the Tamaskan Breed". The Tamaskan Dog Register. 7 March 2011.
7. "Does the Tamaskan Dog Contain Wolf?". Tamaskan Dogs discussion on Facebook. 7 March 2011.
8. "Growth of the Aatu Tamaskan in the US". Tamaskan Breeders Association. 7 March 2011.
9. "The Aatu Tamaskan Breed Standard". Tamaskan Breeders Association. 7 March 2011.
10. "Introducing the Aatu Tamaskan". Buckhorn. 7 March 2011.

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Utonagan Breed Standard

OVERALL PICTURE
Should resemble a Timber Wolf. Large, strong and powerful presence but not too heavy in build with longer legs compared to build of body . Should show overall straight, balanced top-line, and move covering the ground with ease , with good reach.

CHARACTERISTICS
A powerful and adaptable dog. Built for travel. Agile, ability for endurance and fast work, alert and intelligent.

TEMPERAMENT
The temperament, friendly and intelligent with no hint of aggression

HEAD
The head should be large and long (average length 9 - 11 inches), being the same distance (5 - 6 inches) between the occupult and the stop as breadth of the skull. The stop should be slight, not too severe. Skull should taper forward. Broad strong muzzle, lips firm and closing tightly. Nose should be black or dark Brown, lack of pigmentation or snow nose considered as a fault, taking into account bitches may suffer from this temporarily due to seasons or lactating.

EYES
Colour ranging from Brown to amber or yellow (preferred). Good pigment, almond in shape, coat accentuating the eye so that they look larger.
Blue eyes will be considered a fault.

EARS
Large, but should be in comparison to head. Set slightly lower down and tip slightly forward as to give the illusion that they are smaller. Once dog matures they should have a good covering of hair around the inside of the ear. Slightly rounded at tip. Soft ears to be considered a fault.

MOUTH
A strong muzzle with well developed powerful jaw is preferred. Bite should be scissor bite, Lips Black. Undershot or overshot jaws are regarded as a fault.

NECK
Fairly long and slightly curved line where it connects to the head, well muscled, looks bigger due to heavier coat “Mane” in this area, give the impression of strength.

FOREQUARTERS
Built for travel, narrow chest, shoulders sloping enabling good reach. Forelegs long in comparison to body. Elbows close to the body, turning neither in nor out.

CHEST/BODY
Streamlined chest. Body and Tail in comparison showing a long animal. Well sprung ribs into tuck and well muscled loins.

HINDQUARTERS
Well muscled hindquarters giving push and leverage, from behind dog should move straight and move easily, hocks should be straight, slight turn of stifle.

FEET
Front paws large in comparison to bone, turning out very slightly. Back paws smaller Pads slightly webbed, longer toes on front feet. Dew claws on hind feet will be considered a fault.

TAIL
Should be bushy and thick not feathered. Should hang straight to the hock. Carried straight and high when excited or at a trot. Should not curl round on itself, straight tail preferred. Spitz tails are to be considered a fault.

GAIT
Effortless, with a good reach and ground cover, powerful drive from the hindquarters.

COAT
Dense double coat, waterproof harsh top coat and soft thick undercoat, thicker /longer around neck, tail area. No feathering on legs, excess feathering in comparison to coat on ears, tail and trousers undesirable.

COLOURS
Colours allowable: grizzled combination of timber grey, silver, black, white and buff single colours of black, white.
Pied or ink marked colours undesirable.

SIZE
Height
Bitches 25 ins and above to top of withers.
Dogs generally bigger than bitches, 26 ins and above to top of withers.
Height should be taken into consideration with overall appearance.

Weight
Approximately 55-90 lbs and should be in proportion to height, age and frame should be well covered and fit.

FAULTS
Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be considered should be in proportion to its degree.

NOTE
Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles descended into the scrotum.

Written - January 2008

[Image used under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 license: Author: Unknown | Image Provided by: SiCoDesigns | url: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Oka_Snow.jpg]

- http://www.britishutonagan.com/breedstandard.htm

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Aatu Tamaskan Breed Standard

ORIGIN
The Aatu Tamaskan was developed from the UK Tamaskan Dog, whose origins stem from the Northern Inuit and Utonagan breeds (GSD, Husky, Malamute, wolfdog and Czech wolfdog). The Aatu Tamaskan was introduced in late 2009 with the goal of improving health, stabilizing temperament and enhancing the wolfiness of the background breed.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION AND CONFORMATION
The Aatu Tamaskan is a powerful and adaptable domestic dog developed to look like a wolf. The body, shape, movement, coat texture, coloring and mask are similar to that of the grey wolf. Developed as a companion dog, with the ability and aptitude of the working dogs, the Aatu is capable of almost any kind of work. This breed is a good companion indoors and out, and is loyal and devoted to its family. The breed is low maintenance in the sense that it is robust and long lived, but higher maintenance in that it is very intelligent with an active mind, preferring challenge and mental stimulation, including solving problems. The Aatu has the structure and stamina for endurance and engaging in active work.

The Aatu is above average in size, with the length of the body typically slightly longer than the height of the body from the ground to the top of the withers. The ideal Aatu is 25” – 31” tall with a weight range of 55 – 100 pounds.

HEAD
The Aatu’s head is in balance with the body and forms a blunt wedge.

Forehead: Slightly arched.

Stop: Slight to moderate

Muzzle: Broad, strong and gently tapering, slightly longer than skull. The muzzle should not be pointed or snipey.

Eyes: Acceptable colors are yellow, green, grey, amber, gold or light brown. A lighter eye color is preferred.

Ears: Small (i.e. not longer than 1/6th of the height at withers), triangular in shape and slightly rounded at tip. The ears of the Aatu are set close to the head and carried facing forward and erect. The lateral point of the set of the ears and the outer corner of the eyes are in a direct line. A vertical line from tip of ear would run close along the head.

Teeth/Bite: The jaw is strong and symmetrical with a scissor bite; the teeth are well developed, especially the canines. Undershot or overshot jaws are regarded as a fault.

Pigment: The nose, lips, and eye rim pigmentation should be black. The lighter streaked "snow nose" is acceptable under some conditions.

BODY
Neck: Moderate in length, with a thick ruff.

Topline: The Aatu has a flowing transition from the neck to the body. The towline is fairly level, with the ribs set well back.

Withers: The withers are well muscled and pronounced, without interrupting the flow of the topline.

Back : The back is firm and straight. A roached back is considered a fault.

Chest: The chest is narrow but deep and the depth of the chest does not reach to the elbows.

Croup: The croup is moderate and fairly short but not steep.

Loin: The loin is short and well-muscled.

Lower line/belly: The belly is taut, with a nice tuck up.

Front Legs: When standing, the front legs are positioned close together with feet turning slightly outwards. The front legs are perpendicular and strong, but lean. Pasterns are long and sloping, but not over-angulated.

Rear Legs: The hocks are long and clean, and set low to the ground

Feet/Toes: Much like a wolf, the Aatu toes are long and arched. Foot size should be maximized within reason and should appear bigger than the connecting leg width. Black paw pads are preferred.

TAIL
The Aatu tail is bushy and thick, and should not be feathered. It should be carried in a downward position when standing, and held straight and high when excited or in a trot. The tail should not curl on itself, be held consistently high, or over the back. The tail length can range from 13 – 20 inches. A high tail set and straight tail is preferred.

COAT
The Aatu has a dense double coat consisting of a waterproof, harsher topcoat (usually black in color) and a soft thick undercoat. When in full coat, a substantial neck and cheek ruff should be visible. A soft fur covers the belly, the inside of the upper thigh, the scrotum, the inner part of the ear and the area between the toes. The undercoat’s thickness is generally dependent on season or climate. Coat length can range from that of a German Shepherd Dog to that of a longer haired Alaskan Malamute. Very short coats, long flowing coats, excessive feathering, or wavy coats are all faults.

COLORS
Acceptable colors for the Aatu include Wolf Grey and Red Grey, always with a black overlay and the characteristic gray wolf mask. Also acceptable are Black Grey and/or Black Phase depending upon the undercoat and markings. Solid colors or broken patterns (i.e., piebald/ inkspots) are a serious fault.

GAIT
The Aatu has a two-step gait that is effortless and graceful, with good reach and powerful drive. The light-footed trot approximates the movement of the wolf in its appearance, as if gliding over the ground, generally with the head and neck inclined to the horizontal. When walking, the Aatu typically paces rather than trots.

TEMPERAMENT & BEHAVIOR
The Aatu Tamaskan is friendly, loyal, affectionate and intelligent. This breed was developed as a companion dog with the physical stamina and aptitude of the working dogs. The Aatu is highly trainable and eager to please, with excellent recall. When socialized properly, they are good with children and animals, including other dogs and household pets. The Aatu has the capability of doing many different kinds of work, including use as a service or therapy dog, search and rescue, sled dog, or performance activities such as tracking, obedience, agility and rally.

As a companion dog, the Aatu craves and needs consistent contact with people, and can become destructive when left alone for long periods of time. Because of its size, energy level and need for physical exercise, this breed does not do well as an apartment dog or a total housedog. They require a fenced area where they can run and play at will, and prefer the outdoors or to be with their human companions.

Although the Aatu will likely alert you to visitors, it does not make a good guard dog. Any aggression is considered a fault. Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault. The relative seriousness of the fault should be regarded in proportion to its degree.

FAULTS
The following may be considered faults based on their relative severity:

• Overbite or underbite
• Head disproportionate to the body, or atypical for breed standard
• Atypical topline
• Low tail set
• Incorrect tail carriage
• Over/Under-angulation in fore/hindquarters
• Barely pronounced mask (black phase determined on individual basis)
• Short, bouncy stride/movement
• Atypical shape or position of eyes
• Atypical set-on or shape of ears
• Faulty or atypical position of front legs
• Atypical coat
• Atypical movement

DISQUALIFYING FAULTS
The following faults may affect breeding status, and advice shall be sought from the TBA Breeding Committee before purchase or breeding:

• Dark brown or bi-colored eyes
• Aggression or overly shy
• Lack of two descended testicles in a male
• Lack of a well-defined mask
• Severe underbite, severe overbite, wry jaw, sideways protruding teeth, irregular bite or missing teeth
• Any obvious severe skeleton deformities
• Flat forehead
• Unpronounced withers
• Long croup
• Strong slope in the croup
• Stand-off coat
• Colors other than those delineated in the breed standard
• Slack ligaments
• Long soft/silky coats

EXERCISE
The Aatu is built for endurance and activity, both physically and mentally. Regular walks and sufficient play space is a must for this breed. They are happiest when they have a job, be it helping with chores around the house, pulling a sled, running, jumping or playing with their canine friends. This is an intelligent breed and must be kept mentally stimulated as well. They love a challenge and learning new skills.

The Aatu should not be left alone and inactive for long periods of time. Therefore, socialization with people and other animals is important, including daily walks, doggie daycare, and/or dog parks. If left to their own devices, the Aatu will easily find challenges in their own environment. If bored, they can be destructive (digging, chewing, etc.) and are known to have a predilection for wood and wood products.

It is important to understand that owning an Aatu is a commitment of your time and energy to provide your dog with sufficient physical and mental exercise.

GROOMING
The Aatu is a comparatively easy dog to care for as they are fastidiously clean and generally free from body odor. Typically, the Aatu will clean themselves if they become muddy or dirty. Bathing, though infrequently required, is recommended to maintain a good coat.

The Aatu Tamaskan is an Arctic type, double coated breed. The thick undercoat of the Aatu protects the body from harsh or cold weather. As the temperatures warm, the thick coat is no longer needed and the dead hair is shed. Substantial shedding will usually occur once a year in males and twice a year in females. Some owners that live in warm climates, especially ones that lack clearly defined seasonal changes, report some shedding year round. It is worth noting that the Aatu, like all Arctic breeds, will leave hair everywhere in small amounts all year around.

Other than during shedding, this breed needs very little grooming. No trimming or shaving of hair is required or recommended. Occasional brushing is recommended to remove dead hair and keep the coat fresh and shiny. Grooming supplies should include a greyhound comb and an undercoat rake. Like all dogs, nails should be checked and clipped or dremmelled periodically (generally every 6 – 8 weeks), and their feet should be checked regularly to ensure good health, particularly in actively working dogs.

As domestic dogs generally spend significant time indoors in artificial, drying climates (heat and air conditioning), the diet should be supplemented with a good quality salmon or fish oil to maintain good coat health and prevent drying of the coat and skin.

REGISTRIES
The Aatu will be registered with the Tamaskan Breeders Association. Eventual AKC acceptance and recognition is a goal.

SUMMARY
This is NOT the right breed for you if you:

• Do not want hair all over the furniture, carpet, clothes, etc.
• Lead a sedentary lifestyle
• Live in an apartment or do not have a fenced area/yard for the dog to run/play
• Have a busy lifestyle with little time for training or spending time with the dog
• Do not want digging or any kind of destruction within the home or yard
• Want a guard dog
• Want a couch potato
• Do not want to have to groom, brush or maintain a dog

- http://www.tamaskanbreeders.com/Breed_Standard2.html

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Tamaskan Dog Breed Standard

BRIEF HISTORICAL SUMMARY
The Tamaskan dog originated from imported sled type dogs from USA many years ago. These dogs were later mixed with Siberian Husky, Alaskan Malamute and German Shepherd and then exported to Finland where more recently other wolf looking sled type dogs have been integrated to improve bloodlines. The aim was to create a dog that looks like a wolf with working ability.

GENERAL APPEARANCE
The Tamaskan Dog is large and athletic. He should have a wolf-like appearance with coarse and thick fur, small ears and a straight bushy tail.

IMPORTANT PROPORTIONS
The length of the body from point of shoulder to the rear point of pelvis is longer than the height of the body from ground to top of the withers.

BEHAVIOUR-TEMPERAMENT
The Tamaskan Dog is friendly and affectionate. He should not appear aggressive or overly reserved towards people or other dogs. His high intelligence and eagerness to please make him versatile in his uses as a working dog and loyal companion.

HEAD
In balance with the body. Forms a wedge between eyes.

CRANIAL REGION
Forehead: slightly arched.
Stop: Slight/Moderate

FACIAL REGION
Nose: the nose, lips, and eye rim pigmentation should be black, the lighter streaked "snow nose" is acceptable.
Muzzle: Long, Clean, straight bridge of nose. Should not be pointed.
Lips: Close fitting.
Jaws/Teeth: Jaws strong and symmetrical. Well developed teeth, Scissor bite.
Cheeks: Clean, sufficiently muscled.
Eyes: Eyes are Yellow through amber & brown. Almond shaped and of medium size. Blue eyes are a disqualifying fault. Close fitting lids
Ears: Of medium size, but small in proportion to the head. The ears are triangular in shape and slightly rounded at tips. Set wide apart on the skull. Carried facing forward and erect.
Neck: Slightly arched, long and strong.

BODY
Topline: Level topline with a slightly sloping croup.
Withers: Well muscled, pronounced.
Back: Firm and straight.
Loins: Short, well muscled, not broad, sloping slightly.
Croup: Short, not broad, falling away slightly.
Lower line and belly: Taut belly, tucked up.

TAIL
The tail should reach to the hock joint but not beyond. At rest the tail is carried downward, but when the dog is excited or in motion, it is carried higher. The tail, should not be carried curled over the back. Coarse thick hair but not feathered.

FOREQUARTERS
Front Legs: The front legs are straight, close together and the feet should turn slightly outwards.
Shoulders: The shoulder-blade is forward, well muscled.
Upper arm: Strongly muscled.
Elbows: Close fitting, turned neither in nor out.
Forearm: Long, clean and straight.
Feet: Long arched toes.

HINDQUARTERS
Hind Legs: Hind Powerful. The hind legs stand parallel. Dew-claws not desirable and should be removed.
Upper thigh: Long, well muscled. The hip joint is sturdy and flexible.
Knee: Strong, flexible.
Lower thigh: Long, clean, well muscled.
Hocks: Long, clean. Set low to the ground.
Pasterns: Slightly slanted, strong, flexible
Stifles: Well bent, turned neither in nor out.

MOVEMENT
Light, balanced but powerful flowing movement similar to that of a wolf. Massive ground coverage

SKIN
Tight, without wrinkles.

COAT
Straight, close. In winter the coat differs as a impressive undercoat forms all over the body including the inner part of the ears. Well coated neck. The coat should form a slight ruff around the neck and shoulders framing the head.

COLOUR
Black Grey, Wolf Grey and Red Grey always with black overlay and characteristic wolf mask. Solid colours unacceptable.

HEIGHT AND WEIGHT
Height at Withers:
Adult Males 63cm – 84cm to the shoulder
Adult Females 61cm – 71cm to the shoulder

Weight:
Adult Males 32kilos – 50kilos
Adult Females 25kilos – 41kilos

FAULTS
Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault, and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree.

DISQUALIFYING FAULTS
- Untypical eye colour

- Incorrect Ear carriage

- Incorrect markings

- Incorrect tail carriage

N.B.: Male dogs must have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.

- http://www.tamaskan-dog.com/The%20Standard/standard.htm

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Saarlooswolfhond Breed Standard

FCI-Standard N° 311 / 22. 01.1999 / GB

SAARLOOSWOLFDOG
(Saarlooswolfhond)

TRANSLATION: C.Seidler.
ORIGIN: The Netherlands.
DATE OF PUBLICATION OF THE ORIGINAL VALID STANDARD: 22.01.1999.

UTILIZATION
The Saarlooswolfdog was not bred with any aim for a particular utilization. He possesses qualities which enable him to be a faithful and reliable companion and house dog.

CLASSIFICATION F.C.I.
Group 1 Sheepdogs and Cattledogs (except Swiss Cattledogs).
Section 1 Sheepdogs.
Without working trial.

BRIEF HISTORICAL SUMMARY
Leendert Saarloos (1884-1969) loved nature and also loved dogs. However, he found that dogs had become too humanized and intended, as a lover of the German Shepherd Dog, to breed the natural qualities back into this breed in order to produce a better working dog. For this reason he crossed the German Shepherd Dog male, Gerard van der Fransenum, a dog of classical Prussian type, with Fleuri, a female wolf which originated from the Siberian branch of the European type (1932).

Breeding back to the father gave him a basic population of animals with one quarter wolf’s blood. During the course of the following experimental phase with strict selection, a new breed, the « European Wolfsdog » evolved.

As selected animals of this new breed gave good service as guide dogs for the blind, they were at first regarded as suitable for this work. Due to the increase in the proportion of wolf blood, however the useful ability, inherited from the original ancestor, Gerard, became gradually lost and it became obvious that the breed was neither well suited to being a working nor a guide dog. The legacy of Leendert Saarloos, not a working dog, but a dog with attributes close to nature, was recognized as a breed in 1975. At that time, the breed was named « Saarlooswolfhond » in honour of its founder. Honour to him to whom honour is due.

Since then the « Nederlandse Vereniging van Saarlooswolfhonden » (Netherlands Society for the Saarloos Wolfdog), has represented the breed’s interests, including the following new breed standard.

GENERAL APPEARANCE
The Saarlooswolfdog is a strongly built dog whose outer appearance (body build, movement and coat) are reminiscent of a wolf. His construction is balanced and he has quite long limbs without giving the appearance of being long-legged. The different secondary sexual characteristics are pronounced in dogs and bitches.

IMPORTANT PROPORTIONS
The Saarlooswolfdog is longer than its height. The upper jaw and skull have a relation in length of 1 to 1 to each other.

BEHAVIOUR /TEMPERAMENT
A lively dog, bursting with energy, with evidence of a proud independent character. He obeys only of his own free will; he is not submissive. Towards his master he is devoted and reliable to a high degree. Towards strangers he is reserved and somewhat suspicious. His reserve and wolf-like wish to flee in unknown situations, are typical for the Saarloos Wolfdog and should be retained as typical qualities of the breed. When strangers approach the Saarlooswolfdog, they should have some understanding for the behaviour of this dog, for his reserve and wish to flee, qualities which he carries as his inheritance. A forced, undesired approach by a stranger can lead to an overwhelming desire to flee. The suppression of this inclination, for instance through lack of freedom in a dog kept on a lead, can make his behaviour appear nervous.

HEAD
The head should give a wolf-like impression and its size should be in harmonious relation to the body. Seen from above and from the side, the head is wedge-shaped. The line from the muzzle to the well developed zygomatic arch is very characteristic. Together with the correct shape and position of the eye, this line gives the desired wolf-like appearance.

CRANIAL REGION
Skull: The skull is flat and broad. Exaggeration in respect to width must be warned against as this affects the typical wedge shape. The occiput and the eye socket must not be noticeable. The superciliary ridges should merge with the skull in a flowing line.
Stop: The transition from the strong muzzle to the skull must form a slight stop.

FACIAL REGION
Nose: Nose leather well pigmented. Bridge of nose straight.
Lips: Well closed. Tight fitting.
Upper jaw: Must not appear coarse compared to the skull. Too coarse a muzzle disfigures the typical wolf-like shape.
Lower jaw: Not conspicuous.
Jaws/Teeth: Upper and lower jaw are well developed and have a strong and complete scissor bite which is also acceptable in the shape of a very close fitting scissor bite.
Eyes: Preferably yellow, almond shaped. Set slightly oblique, not protruding and not round, with well fitting lids. The expression is alert, reserved but not anxious. The eye is a very typical characteristic of the breed which emphasizes the desired wolf-like appearance. The desired expression is only achieved by a light eye. A great deal of value must be placed on the colour, shape and correct position in skull. With an older dog, the yellow eye colour may darken but the original disposition to a yellow colour should be maintained. Disposition to brown colour is less desirable. The eye socket merges into the skull in a flowing line: An eye socket that is too pronounced together with a pronounced superciliary arch and a marked stop are undesirable.
Ears: Medium size, fleshy, triangular with rounded tip. Hairy on inside. The ear is set on at the level of the eyes. The ears are very mobile and express the emotions and feelings of the dog. Not desired are ears too pointed or set on too high. Ears set too far apart laterally, disfigure the head in its typical appearance and are therefore less desirable.

NECK
Dry and well muscled, merging with the back in a very flowing line. Just as flowing is the line from the throat to the chest. The neck can, especially with a winter coat, be adorned by a beautiful collar (ruff). The skin of the throat is minimal and not conspicuous. It is typical of the Saarlooswolfdog that at a relaxed trot, head and neck form an almost horizontal line.

BODY
The Saarlooswolfdog is longer than its height.
Back: Straight and strong.
Ribs: Normally sprung.
Chest: The flowing line of the brisket reaches, at the most, to the elbows. Chest and distance between legs, seen from the front, appear moderately broad. Too massive a chest should be avoided as it disturbs the outline which typifies this steady trotter. The outline is rather slim and very wolf-like.
Lower line: Taut and lightly tucked up.

TAIL
Broad and profusely coated at set on reaching at least to the hocks. Appears slightly low set, which is often accentuated by a slight depression at the set on. The tail is carried lightly curved in sabre shape or almost straight. It may be carried slightly higher in excitement or when the dog is trotting.

LIMBS

FOREQUARTERS
Legs are straight and well muscled. Bone is oval in cross-section and not too coarse. Legs rather show a certain grace in relation to body.
Shoulder-blade: Sufficiently broad and long. Normal angulation of about 30° to the vertical, not exaggerated.
Upper arm: Same length as shoulder-blade; angulation between shoulder-blade and upper arm normal, not exaggerated.
Elbows: Close fitting to thorax without being pressed close. Due to the curve of the ribs and the correct position of the shoulder and the upper arm, the distance between the front legs is moderately broad.
Front feet: Harefeet, well muscled and arched with strongly developed pads. This, together with the strong carpal joints and the lightly sloping pasterns, are responsible for good flexible, springy movement. When standing, slight outward turn is permitted.

HINDQUARTERS
Normal position of pelvis. Due to low tail set on, which is often accentuated by a slight depression, the pelvis, however often appears to be placed more obliquely. The angulation of the hindquarters is in balcance with the angulation of the forequarters. The light movement, typical of the breed, is very dependant on the correct angulation of stifle and hock. The slightest deviation prevents this typical movement. Slight cow-hocks are permitted when standing.
Upper thigh: Normal length and breadth, strongly muscled.
Stifle: Angulation not exaggerated.
Hock joint: Angulation must not be exaggerated. Bones and muscles permit optimal stretching of hock joints.
Hocks: Sufficiently long (not short), medium slope.
Hind feet: Well developed and well arched.

GAIT / MOVEMENT
The Saarloos Wolfdog is a typical untiring trotter, which can easily cover great distances at his own pace. He barely tires by his natural movement and is reminiscent of the wolf. The Saarloos Wolfdog differs greatly from other breeds through his very specific light-footed movement. The correct forward movement is very dependent on different details in the construction of the body; above all, the correct angulation of the different limbs, is of great influence. At a free unrestricted trot, the Saarloos Wolfdog carries head and neck at almost horizontal level: in this position, the position of the eyes and the wedge shape of the head are particularly characteristic. At an untiring trot, which is the movement typical of the breed, the dog shows no great reach of the limbs because this, as well as too much drive, would spoil the light-footed movement which is a model for energy conserving movement.

COAT

HAIR
The summer coat differs greatly from the winter coat.

In winter the undercoat predominates mostly, which together with the guard hair of the topcoat forms a profuse coat, covering the whole body and forming a distinct collar (ruff) round the neck. With the summer coat, the guard hair of the topcoat predominates. Temperature changes in autumn and winter can have a great influence on the undercoat; but the dispostion to this should always be present. It is essential that the belly, the inside of the upper thighs and the scrotum are covered by hair.

COLOUR
Coat colours are:
From light to dark shaded black-game colour, so called wolf-gray.
From light to dark shaded brown-game colour , so called « bos »-brown (Bos = forest).
From light creamy white to white.
Pigment of nose, eye rims, lips and toenails should be black in a wolf-gray and white Saarloos Wolfdog. In « bos »-brown or cream white dogs it should be liver coloured. The coat is pale on the whole underside of the body, on the inner side of the limbs and at the back of the breeches.
The wolf-gray as well as the « bos »-brown Saarlooswolfdog show a dark colour on the outside of the limbs. They should also have an expressive mask.

SIZE
Height at the withers: Varies in the Saarloos Wolfdog.
Male dogs: From 65 to 75 cm.
Bitches: From 60 to 70 cm.
Slight deviations upwards are permissible.

FAULTS
Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog.

HEAD
Too round, protruding eyes.
Too pronounced eye sockets so that the superciliary ridges do not merge with the skull in a flowing line. This often occurs with a pronounced stop and too round eyes.
Ears set on too high and or pointed ears.
Ears pointing too far outwards.

BODY
Too deep, too short.
TAIL
Curly tail. Tail carried over back.
LIMBS
Too coarse in bone.
COAT
Not sufficiently intense colours are less desirable.
Formation of a dark saddle due to poor distribution of dark hair.

ELIMINATING FAULTS
Aggressive or overly shy.
Coat colour other than those permitted.
Any form of aggression.

Any dog clearly showing physical or behavioural abnormalities shall be disqualified.

N.B. : Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.

PAGE
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FCI-St n° 311/22. 01.1999

[Image used under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license:
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Northern Inuit Breed Standard

GENERAL APPEARANCE
A dog of medium build, athletic but never racy.

HEAD
Not too broad, skull slightly domed. Muzzle equal in length to skull, strong and gently tapering. Cheeks flat. Nose preferably black but a ‘snow nose’ is permitted. Nostrils large. Slight stop. Lips close fitting and black. Perfect scissor bite.

EARS
Fairly wide apart but not low set. Not too large, carried erect.

EYES
Oval and set at a slightly oblique angle. any Colour permitted.

NECK
Strong and muscular with a well defined nape.

FOREQUARTERS
Shoulders flat. Moderately angulated upper arm but shoulder blades well laid back. Elbows fitting close to the chest which must not be too broad ( approx 4 finger width between front legs ) or drop below the elbow. Distance from ground to elbow slightly greater than that from elbow to withers. Oval bone, neither too heavy or too light, pasterns upright but flexible. Feet oval and toes open and well knuckled. Pads black and well cushioned with hair.

BODY
Topline level, Ribs long to give overall proportions of height to length as 10 – 9, well sprung from the spine but flattening on the sides to allow the elbows to move freely. Loin short and deep with no exaggerated tuck up. Croup broad and fairly short but not steep. The tail is a smooth continuation of the croup and must reach no further than the point of the hock. May be lifted when excited and carried upright or sickle in movement.

HINDQUARTERS
Well angulated with broad, muscular thighs, the strength being carried through to the second thigh. Hocks short and perpendicular to the ground. Upright when viewed from the rear. Feet oval, can have five rear toes. Removal of dewclaws optional.

COAT
Dense, waterproof double coat, slightly coarse in texture. Body coat 3 – 5 cm. Longer on ruff and breechings. Tail bushy.

GAIT
Far reaching, covering the ground with an easy stride.

SIZE
Height:
Bitches-Minimum 23” (59 cm) Maximum -28” (71 cm)
Dogs- Minimum 25” (64 cm.) Maximum 30” (76 cm)

Overall balance more important than size.

COLOUR
Pure white or any Colour Sable from Grey or Apricot through to pure black. White faces permitted on any Colour. Masklike or cap like markings permitted on the faces of any Colour other than whites. Where white appears on the legs and feet the Colour change must be gradual.

TEMPERAMENT
Friendly, placid and out going

NOTE
Males should have two apparently normal testicles descended into the scrotum.

FAULTS
Curly tails, long or single coats, Ink Marked, black and tan colours. Cow or sickle hocks. Any departure from the standard should be considered a fault; the seriousness with which the fault is regarded should be in proportion to its degree.

[Image used under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 2.0 Generic license:
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- http://www.nisociety.com/breedstandard.htm

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Czechoslovakian Wolfdog Breed Standard

FCI-Standard N° 332 / 03. 09. 1999 / GB

CHECHOSLOVAKIAN WOLFDOG
(Ceskoslovenský Vlciak)

TRANSLATION: Mrs. C. Seidler.
ORIGIN: The former Czechoslovakian Republic.
PATRONAGE: Slovakian Republic.
DATE OF PUBLICATION OF THE ORIGINAL VALID STANDARD: 03.09.1999.

UTILIZATION
Working Dog.

CLASSIFICATION F.C.I.
Group 1 (Sheepdogs and Cattle Dogs.)
Section 1 (Sheepdogs with working trial.)

BRIEF HISTORICAL SUMMARY
In the year 1955 a biological experiment took place in the CSSR of that time, namely, the crossing of a German Shepherd Dog with a Carpathian wolf. The experiment established that the progeny of the mating of male dog to female wolf as well as that of male wolf to female dog, could be reared. The vast majority of the products of these matings possessed the genetic requirements for continuation of breeding. In the year 1965, after the ending of the experiment, a plan for the breeding of this new breed was worked out. This was to combine the usable qualities of the wolf with the favourable qualities of the dog. In the year 1982, the Ceskoslovenský Vlciak, through the general committee of the breeders’ associations of the CSSR of that time, was recognized as a national breed.

GENERAL APPEARANCE
Firm type in constitution. Above average size with rectangular frame. In body shape, movement, coat texture, colour of coat and mask, similar to the wolf.

IMPORTANT PROPORTIONS
– Length of body: Height at withers = 10 : 9.
– Length of muzzle: Length of cranial region = 1 : 1.5.

BEHAVIOUR / TEMPERAMENT
Lively, very active, capable of endurance, docile with quick reactions. Fearless and courageous. Suspicious. Shows tremendous loyalty towards his master. Resistant to weather conditions. Versatile in his uses.

HEAD
Symmetrical, well muscled. Seen from the side and from above, it forms a blunt wedge. Sex should be unmistakable.

CRANIAL REGION
Skull: Seen from the side and from the front, the forehead is slightly arched. No marked frontal furrow. Occipital bone clearly visible.
Stop: Moderate.

FACIAL REGION
Nose: Oval shape, black.
Muzzle: Clean, not broad; straight bridge of nose.
Lips: Tight fitting. No gap at corner of mouth. Rims of lips are black.
Jaws/Teeth: Jaws strong and symmetrical. Well developed teeth, specially the canines. Scissor or pincer bite with 42 teeth according to the usual tooth set. Regular teeth set.
Cheeks: Clean, sufficiently muscled, not markedly protruding.
Eyes: Small, slanting, amber coloured. Well fitting lids.
Ears: Pricked, thin, triangular, short (i.e. not longer than 1/6th of the height at withers); the lateral point of the set on of the ears and the outer corner of the eyes are in a direct line. A vertical line from tip of ear would run close along the head.
Neck: Dry, well muscled. In repose forms an angle of up to 40 degrees to the horizontal. The neck must be sufficiently long for the nose to touch the ground effortlessly.

BODY
Topline: Flowing transition from neck to body. Sloping away sligthly.
Withers: Well muscled, pronounced. Though pronounced, they must not interrupt the flow of the topline.
Back: Firm and straight.
Loins: Short, well muscled, not broad, sloping slightly.
Croup: Short, well muscled, not broad, falling away slightly.
Chest: Symmetrical, well muscled, roomy, pear-shaped and narrowing towards the sternum. The depth of chest does not reach to the elbows. The point of the sternum does not extend beyond the shoulder joints.
Lower line and Belly: Taut bellly, tucked up. Slightly hollow in flanks.

TAIL
Set on high, hanging straight down. When dog is excited, generally raised in sickle shape.

LIMBS

FOREQUARTERS The front legs are straight, strong, clean and close together with slightly turned out feet.
Shoulders: The shoulder blade is placed rather far forward, well muscled. It forms an angle of nearly 65 degrees to the horizontal.
Upper arm: Strongly muscled, forms an angle of 120 to 130 degrees to the shoulder blade.
Elbows: Close fitting, turned neither in nor out, well defined, flexible. Upper arm and forearm form an angle of approximately 150 degrees.
Forearm: Long, clean and straight. The length of the forearm and pastern is 55% of height at withers.
Pastern joint: Solid, flexible.
Pastern: Long, forms an angle of at least 75 degrees to the ground. Lightly springy in movement.
Front feet: Large, turned slightly outwards. Longish arched toes and strong, dark nails. Well defined, elastic, dark pads.

HINDQUARTERS
Powerful. The hind legs stand parallel. An imaginary vertical line drawn from the point of the ischium, would run midway through the hock joint. The dewclaws are undesirable and must be eliminated.
Upper thigh: Long, well muscled. Forms an angle of 80 degrees to the pelvis. The hip joint is sturdy and flexible.
Stifl: Strong and flexible.
Lower thigh: Long, clean, well muscled. Forms an angle of about 130 degrees with the hock.
Hock joint: Clean, solid, flexible.
Hock: Long, clean. Position almost vertical to the ground.
Hind feet: Longish, arched toes with strong dark nails.

GAIT / MOVEMENT
Harmonious, light-footed, ground covering trot in which the limbs skim over the ground as closely as possible. Head and neck incline to the horizontal. Pacing when walking.

SKIN
Elastic, tight, without wrinkles, unpigmented.

COAT

HAIR Straight and close. Winter and summer coat differ greatly. In winter an immense undercoat is predominant and, together with the topcoat, forms a thick coat all over the body. It is necessary for the hair to cover the belly, the inside of the upper thigh, the scrotum, the inner part of the ear and the area between the toes. Well coated neck.
COLOUR Yellowish-gray to silver-gray with a charateristic light mask. Light hair also on the underside of the neck and the forechest. Dark gray colour with light mask is permissible.

SIZE AND WEIGHT
Height at withers:
Dogs at least 65 cm
Bitches at least: 60 cm

Weight:
Dogs at least 26 kg
Bitches at least 20 kg

FAULTS
Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree.

•Heavy or light head.
•Flat forehead.
•The absence of two PM1 (premolar 1) or of both M3 (molar 3) is not to be penalized. However, the absence of one M3 in addition to 2 PM1 or the absence of one PM1 in addition to both M3 is to be considered as a fault.
•Dark brown, black or different coloured eyes.
•Coarse ear. High or low set-on of ear.
•Neck carried high in repose; low position of neck when standing.
•Unpronounced withers.
•Untypical topline.
•Long croup.
•Tail long, set on low and not carried correctly.
•Too little or too much angulation in forequarters.
•Weak pastern.
•Too little or too much angulation in hindquarters. Insufficient muscle.
•Barely pronounced mask.
•Short, wavy movement.

ELIMINATING FAULTS
•Aggresive or overly shy.
•Discrepancy in proportions.
•Faults in deportment and temperament.
•Untypical head.
•Missing teeth (except 2 PM1 and the M 3, see § faults), irregular bite.
•Untypical shape and position of eyes.
•Untypical set-on and shape of ears.
•Dewlap.
•Strong slope in croup.
•Untypical ribcage.
•Tail untypical in set on and carriage.
•Faulty and untypical position of front legs.
•Stand-off and untypical coat.
•Colours other than those in the standard.
•Slack ligaments.
•Untypical movement.
Any dog clearly showing physical or behavioural abnormalities shall be disqualified.
N.B.: Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.

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Alaskan Noble Companion Dog Breed Standard

(revised 3/ 05)

General Temperament of the ideal Alaskan Noble Companion Dog:

The Alaskan Noble Companion Dog is an eclectic breed and the ultimate generalist. The ideal dog is capable of almost any kind of work including herding, carting, agility, obedience, lure coursing, tracking, mushing, therapy dog work, and some Schutzhund events. Individual dogs will excel in various areas, but the breed as a whole is capable of producing competitors in any of these areas. This is a low maintenance breed in the sense that it is robust and long-lived, but higher maintenance in the sense that it has an active mind and body that prefer to be occupied with problems to solve and experiencing life to the fullest which includes a keen observation style.

This breed is a good companion indoors and out. The adult is not so high energy that it is bouncing off the walls of the house when left alone, but seldom is a ‘couch potato’ until well into old age (its later teen years). He is capable of being an ‘alert’ dog that knows when something is worth paying attention to by directing your attention via voice and body posture. He is friendly enough to get along casually with other dogs. Attempting to bite another dog is a disqualification.

Individuals of the breed may be somewhat aloof to strangers, but not apprehensive, standing their ground and showing confidence to meet overtures without themselves making them, while others may be openly extroverted to all strangers. They should be observant and vigilant of new situations and people, not switching loyalties easily yet all must be capable of eventually warming up to a friendly stranger.

Individuals must be approachable by the judge in order to successfully observe the teeth and to determine testicle descent. Attempting to bite the judge is a disqualification. A dog shrinking behind its master or handler while being approached by the judge is a fault. Tucking of tail tightly under the body while being examined by the judge is a fault.

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Both for the individual dog and for a breed (population) as a whole excessive attention to appearance can have negative consequences. Things can go wrong if we do not take into account the effects *embellishments* can have on the physiology of the animal. It is a human propensity to beautify still more what is beautiful already. Rounded becomes dome shaped, short becomes too short and wide becomes broader still. Some breeds have such enormous pelts that the hair covers the head so richly that the dog is unable to see. Exaggeration lurks. With this in mind, we approach the Alaskan Noble Companion Dog’s conformation very generally in the early evolution of this breed, striving to leave the observer with a gestalt rather than great detail.


General Conformation of the ideal Alaskan Noble Companion Dog:

The ideal Alaskan Noble Companion Dog is between 26″ and 33″ tall and weighs 60-110 pounds. The females may be much smaller than the males occupying the lower end of the weight and height spectrum, however large height and weight in females is not considered a fault.

The ideal eye color is yellow, green, grey, or blue with amber (or gold) being common. The lighter the eye color the better, with dark brown eyes being considered a minor fault. Symmetry is desirable in eye color and if the 2 eyes are different colors or if one eye is bi-colored, it is considered a minor fault.

The body color should be as gradually blended as possible giving a natural progression from one color to the next with a minimum of sharp transitions. Obvious masks which give the appearance of other breeds such as an Alaskan Malamute or Siberian Husky are faults. Pinto markings (large spots) and white tail tip markings are faults. White markings on the feet or chest are to be minimized. All colors including solid colors, dilute colors, and white are acceptable with multiple-banded fur being very common giving the appearance of many color hues in the same dog.

A tightly curled tail as in an Akita or an Alaskan Malamute is a fault. The tail curvature is to be minimized.

Coat ranges in length from that of a typical German Shepherd to that of a longer-haired Alaskan Malamute with the ideal lying somewhere in-between. The ideal coat length and thickness, achieved by a thick seasonal undercoat beneath coarse guard hairs, does not require daily brushing, yet is long enough and thick enough to withstand the coldest North American winters in the dog’s prime. When in full coat, a substantial neck and cheek ruff should be visible. The neck and cheek ruffs should be maximized. Curly hair is a fault. Slightly wavy hair is a minor fault.

Ears range in size from that of a typical Belgian Shepherd to that of an Alaskan Malamute. Floppy ears are a major fault. Inside ear hair should be maximized although lack of abundant hair in ears is not a fault. Overly large ears in proportion to the head on the adult dog, like that of a German Shepherd is a minor fault.

Bite should be a scissors with an even bite being a minor fault.
Underbite or other obvious bite abnormalities are major faults.
Lack of 2 descended testicles in a male is a disqualification.

Front legs should appear close together from the front compared to most other breeds, similar to the larger Sight Hounds. The dogs should move effortlessly, single tracking while moving at a trot, appearing as if the body is suspended in the air from above like a marionette.

Solid color nose leather is desirable. Black is preferred to pastels. Distinct spots on the nose are a fault.

Feet size should be maximized within reason and should appear bigger than the connecting leg width. Rear dew claws are a minor fault. Nail color should be either darker or the same color as surrounding hair color. Lighter nails than surrounding hair color is a minor fault.

More on conformation TBD.

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Breeding Disqualifications for the Alaskan Noble Companion Dog:

Lack of ability to achieve the AKC CGC – temperament status recorded with AKC.
Lack of OFA Good or Excellent – hip status recorded with OFA.
Lack of a CERF Pass – eye status recorded with CERF.

Lack of 2 descended testicles in a male.
Severe underbite, severe overbite, wry jaw, or sideways protruding teeth.
Any obvious skeleton deformities.
Obvious ectropion or entropion.

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